Tarka Country and the Taw Valley: Slow Travel Days Out Near Northcote Manor

The Tarka Trail

Taking its name from Henry Williamson’s beloved novel ‘Tarka the Otter’, the 180-mile trail takes you through serene countryside, woodland valleys and windswept moorland. 

The route follows a scenic figure-of-eight through North Devon, passing through several places mentioned in the original novel. Wander across the rugged expanses of Exmoor and Dartmoor. Explore charming coastal villages, full of hidden treasures and scenic beaches. Chase the dappled sunlight through peaceful wooded river valleys.

Follow in Tarka’s footsteps by foot or by bicycle and get beneath the surface of Devon’s ever-changing landscape.

Walking the Tarka Trail

The entire 180-mile trail is walkable across a mix of footpaths, bridleways and smooth paths. The whole route is comprehensively waymarked, passing through the beautiful towns of Bideford, Okehampton, Ilfracombe and crossing over in Barnstaple. 

Through undulating footpaths and rugged moorland, the path joins sections of the South West Coast, the Two Moors Way and the Dartmoor Way. Varying from easy to more challenging, there are sections to satisfy walkers of all stripes with day-long and half-day circular options.

Cycling the Tarka Trail

To explore on two wheels, the stunning 32-mile traffic-free section between Braunton and Meeth follows smooth, mostly flat surfaces. The whole family can feel the wind in their hair as you follow cycle paths through woodlands, meadows and along the estuary, spotting sculptures and shelters created for the route.

If you don’t have a bike of your own, easy hire points can be found in Braunton, Barnstaple, Bideford and Torrington. There are plenty of places on route for refreshments, food, or to simply admire the view.

The Taw Valley

Rolling down from the slopes of Dartmoor, the River Taw winds its way through the rolling green hills of North Devon into the Bristol Channel. At 45 miles long, it’s one of Devon’s longer waterways, carving out the beautiful Taw Valley and all its scenic splendour.

The Taw Estuary forms part of the local UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, creating a wonderful home for a diverse mix of wading birds. Besides the salt marshes and estuary mudflats, idyllic villages offer charming places to explore.

Literary Devon

The Tarka Trail was inspired by Henry Williamson’s well-loved novel, Tarka The Otter. It’s an unsentimental tale from the perspective of an otter struggling to survive in the North Devon landscape. The book caught the public’s imagination and is thought to have changed the general attitude towards otters, who were once considered vermin.

For literary heritage fans, spotting the real-life locations mentioned in Tarka the Otter adds an exciting extra dimension to your walk or cycle. Braunton Burrows, Barnstaple and Ilfracombe are all on the Tarka Trail, and you’ll find a statue honouring Tarka in Bideford.

Best Slow‑Travel Stops Along the Tarka Trail

The best slow travel days out have plenty of places to stop and sample local delights.

For heritage and a wonderful pannier market, linger in Barnstaple, the central hub of the Tarka Trail. Make a stop at Instow, a beautiful historic fishing village, for sweeping estuary views and sandy beaches. The bustling market town of Bideford is full of cafes, craft and vintage shops to explore. 

On the coast, the dramatic meeting of the Taw and Torridge rivers makes for stunning scenes at Crow Point. Or, head for arguably the most spectacular coastal views along the Tarka Trail at Valley of Rocks. If you’re cycling, don’t forget to leave some time to explore the charming town and quaint streets of Braunton. There’s also Fremington Quay for exceptional riverside scenery, Great Torrington for a delve into the area’s history, and many more spots besides.

For Adventurous Walkers

Naturally, the 32 miles of traffic-free cycling path are nice and smooth for easier walks however, there’s plenty to satisfy the more adventurous walker too. The Tarka Trail heads through the rugged moorland of Exmoor and skirts the edge of Dartmoor providing a few satisfying tors to climb. 

The Taw Valley and Estuary is part of a UNESCO Biosphere. From Braunton Burrows, a diverse system of sand dune slacks and flower-filled grasslands stretches out across 5km. A unique and valuable environment to explore on foot. 

And if you’re really in the mood for adventure, try tackling the entire route over nine or ten days.

Return to comfort each night at Northcote Manor

Set in the heart of Tarka country, our magnificent 18th-century manor house hotel offers a peaceful and scenic retreat. Not far from Torrington, Barnstaple and other key Tarka Trail access points, Northcote Manor is perfectly placed for walkers and cyclists to enjoy a sound night's sleep.

Base your slow-travel weekend at Northcote Manor and enjoy the country-house dining, verdant landscape views and an idyllic riverside setting. Our boutique hotel offers the ideal base to explore the national parks and charming villages along the Tarka Trail.